The Wave is Closer

I love to watch finless surfers, mainly because they are forced to stay connected to the waves.

Fins are essential for directing the board precisely.

Shortboarders are so efficient that they can ignore what the waves do. In this scenario, surfing becomes more of a ramp to carve turns and pump for air sections. It’s not meant to be a criticism, as high-performance surfing is impressive.

Finless surfing is an approach that is more connected and delicate to the waves. The rider navigates the subtleties and intricacies, finding the pockets for maximum speed.

Why is there an essay on finless surf?

You will notice that fin-free surfers spend most of their time at a low angle, closer to the waves, and with a lower center of gravity.

Imagine your surfing as I do mine. I am often found standing rigid-legged at the center of the board.

Imagine how much better you could control the wave if you bent your knees, dropped your hips, lowered the center of gravity, and rode close to it. The pocket of the wave is much easier to find. Standing up to use your legs as leverage is only necessary when you want to turn or cut back.

You can even do a bottom-turn from a low, crouching position. Nathan Adams maneuvers this wave by keeping his center-of-gravity low.

Staying low is the best way to draw the perfect line on a surf wave. This applies whether or not your fins are working for you.

Next time you go out to surf, keep your center of gravity low and move closer to the waves. You’ll have more control and feel more connected to your board.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *